HUAMPAMI, Peru (AP) In his first year at San Marcos
University, Hermenegildo Espejo barely spoke, and certainly not in
class.
His Spanish was rudimentary, his accent an embarrassment.
Classmates in Lima, a two-day trip from his Amazon home town,
laughed at his grammatical stumbles, his odd pronunciation.
''I didn't understand anything. I couldn't pronounce words
well,'' the 22-year-old Peruvian Indian recalls, wincing as he
gazes out a taxi window on a rutted jungle road near his home.
Six years later, Espejo is a thesis away from an undergraduate
degree in linguistics at Peru's top public university. And while
his Spanish is now excellent, it is not his priority. He aspires to
produce the first unified grammar of Awajun, his native tongue.
Espejo's story highlights the two biggest challenges Latin
America's indigenous peoples face in their struggle to preserve
their cultures: keeping their native languages alive and empowering
themselves through education.
Throughout Latin America, native languages are disappearing and
Indians are under intense pressure to speak Spanish. At the same
time, Indians have little access to post-secondary education. They
are ill-prepared by substandard schools, afflicted by high dropout
rates and usually short on financial help.
More than a fifth of the 557 languages spoken by Latin America's
natives are at serious risk of extinction, according to the
ambitious ''Socio-Linguistic Atlas of Latin America's Indigenous
Peoples'' that UNICEF is publishing this month. Across Latin
America, more than 100 native peoples have abandoned their mother
tongues and now speak exclusively Spanish or Portuguese, says Inge
Sichra, the book's lead author.
In coastal Peru, speakers of the Andes' dominant native
languages are routinely shamed into abandoning them, says Peruvian
anthropologist Rodrigo Montoya.
''Racism isn't a historical relic. It's not something from the
past, a colonial inheritance that's lapsed. No sir, racism is a
concept fully in force,'' he says.
The legacy of suppression of language dates back to Spanish King
Carlos III's 1770 decree banning native tongues in the realm. The
order provoked uprisings up and down the Andes that the Spanish
brutally suppressed.
That enduring baggage of colonial rule Lima was the seat of
the Spanish viceroy persists today.
''My parents were bilingual but they didn't permit us to speak
Quechua at home,'' says one of South America's most respected
linguists, Rodolfo Cerron Palomino, a professor at Catholic
University in Lima and a pre-eminent scholar of Quechua.
Alan Perez, an Ashaninka from Peru's interior and an industrial
engineering student at San Marcos, says his parents never taught
him his mother tongue. He has made little effort to learn it.
''Like it or not, you adapt to this place and gradually lose who
you are,'' he says of Lima.
For Espejo, the challenge of preserving his language and
identity went hand in hand with getting a good education.
Espejo is among the few Amazon Indians at San Marcos, whose
dusty campus borders a gritty industrial district and contrasts
sharply with the well-manicured grounds of Lima's private Catholic
University a mile away, dominated by Peru's light-skinned elite.
Upward mobility, limited to begin with for Latin America's poor,
is doubly so for its indigenous citizens. And Peru, along with
Guatemala, are among the countries where racism is most ingrained,
academics and rights activists generally concur.
Last year, 62 of San Marcos' nearly 27,000 students, or 0.2
percent, were from the Amazon. Compare that to the 1.2 percent, or
350,000, of Peru's 29.5 million people who are Amazon Indians.
The hostility and suspicion Peru's natives encounter in Lima is
alarming, says Wilfredo Ardito, anti-discrimination chief at the
human rights group APRODEH. His files are thick with cases of
indigenous people being denied entry to nightclubs, of dark-skinned
nannies barred from exclusive beaches, of Indians beaten by police
merely for venturing into exclusively white neighborhoods.
''People still think that the whiter you are, the better,'' says
Ardito. The worst, he says, is the racial profiling by police,
themselves natives, whom he blames for the worst abuses.
Such behavior may explain why just 13 percent of Peruvians
identified themselves as indigenous in the country's 2007 census
when anthropologists and linguists say the true figure is closer to
45 percent. Or why, in Ecuador, only 6 percent of Ecuadoreans
identified themselves in a 2003 census as indigenous even though
academics say they account for about 35 percent.
Espejo plans to use his schooling to help defend his people, the
Awajun, who number about 45,000.
''We Indians don't have chemical engineers. We don't have
lawyers, or doctors,'' he says during his first visit home in two
years to Huampami, a jungle-skirted town of 1,200 people near
Ecuador that is reached by river.
''The poor Indian isn't taught even to negotiate. How can anyone
negotiate if he doesn't have the educational grounding?''
Friends and relatives greet Espejo warmly and press him for news
as he treads the footpaths of Huampami, a district capital of
dirt-floor dwellings. The secondary and elementary school
principals praise Espejo's achievement and introduce him to their
students, most of whom will likely end up subsistence farmers and
hunter-gatherers like their parents.
''Eventually, I would like to train bilingual teachers,'' says
Espejo, wistfulness in his voice.
Such teachers don't exist in Huampami.
Awajun is barely taught in elementary school; only rudimentary
workbooks are available. And it's abandoned altogether at
Huampami's high school, where half the students are boarders from
outlying villages.
Espejo remembers ruefully how a high school teacher twisted his
ear when he dared speak Awajun.
''We were told that we needed to learn Spanish so we could be
successful in the city,'' says Espejo, a short, muscular young man
with rimless wire glasses and broad cheekbones. ''Our language, we
were told, had no economic value.''
Espejo first arrived in Lima in 2003 with 14 other youths from
the Cenepa River basin. Only one other student stayed; the rest
dropped out because they couldn't cope with the academic rigors or
couldn't afford tuition and living costs.
Espejo's parents his father runs Huampami's tiny vocational
high school and his mother teaches first grade at a village
downstream helped him. But he sometimes couldn't scrape together
the $175 per month he needed for tuition, room and board. So he'd
borrow from friends, or do translations.
Food became a problem.
At the residence hall where he lived, all the meals were free.
But demand was great and quantities limited. Students had to line
up two hours before each meal. Get in line late and the food would
run out.
''I had to choose sometimes between my studies and eating,''
Espejo said. ''So I'd go hungry.''
Indian students are more afflicted by this problem because they
are from distant provinces and tend not to have relatives in Lima.
One activity for which Espejo increasingly found time was
martial arts. He joined San Marcos' Kung Fu Wushu team and won
first place in a recent tourney in his 75-77 kilogram (165-170
pound) weight class.
Espejo is also an avid soccer player. He says other club teams
at San Marcos hate to play his squad, whose players are all from
the small, tightly knit group of Amazon students.
And why is that?
Rarely does Espejo smile so broadly.
''Because we kids from the Amazon always win.''
Associated Press Writer Andrew Whalen in Lima, Peru, contributed
to this report.
(Copyright 2009 The Associated Press. All Rights Reserved.)