KOURE, Niger (AP) A crisp African dawn is breaking overhead,
and Zibo Mounkaila is on the back of a pickup truck bounding across
a sparse landscape of rocky orange soil.
The tallest animals on earth are here, the guide says, somewhere
amid the scant green bush on one side, and the thatched dome
villages on the other.
They're here, but by all accounts, they shouldn't be.
A hundred years ago, West Africa's last giraffes numbered in the
thousands and their habitat stretched from Senegal's Atlantic Ocean
coast to Chad, in the heart of the continent. By the dawn of the
21st century, their world had shrunk to a tiny zone southeast of
the capital, Niamey, stretching barely 150 miles (240 kilometers)
long.
The numbers of the Western subspecies dwindled so low that in
1996, they numbered a mere 50.
Instead of disappearing as many feared, though, the giraffes
have bounced miraculously back from the brink of extinction,
swelling to more than 200 today.
It's an unlikely boon experts credit to a combination of
concerned conservationists, a government keen for revenue, and a
rare harmony with villagers who have accepted their presence for
now.
There are nine subspecies of giraffes in Africa, each
distinguished by geographic location and the color, pattern and
shape of their spotted coats.
The animals in Niger are known as Giraffa camelopardalis
peralta, the most endangered subspecies in Africa. They have large
orange-brown spots that fade into pale white legs.
Ten years ago, an estimated 140,000 giraffes inhabited Africa,
according to Julian Fennessy, a Nairobi, Kenya-based conservation
expert. Today, giraffes number less than 100,000, devastated by
poaching, war, advancing deserts and exploding human populations
that have destroyed and fragmented their habitats. Around half the
giraffes live outside game parks in the wild, where they are more
difficult to monitor and protect, Fennessy said.
Giraffe hunting is prohibited in many countries. And some, like
Kenya, have taken giraffe meat off the menu of tourist restaurants
that once served them up on huge skewers. Even so, Fennessy said
the plight of giraffes has largely been overlooked in conservation
circles.
''We're trying to increase awareness, educate people, help
governments put conservation practices in place,'' said Fennessy,
who founded the Giraffe Conservation Foundation to draw attention
to the animals' plight. ''If we don't, giraffe numbers are going to
continue to drop.''
The first time the trucks came for them in Koure was more than a
decade ago, during the reign of an army colonel who seized power in
a 1996 coup.
Col. Ibrahim Bare Mainassara was adamant they would make a good
gift for the president of neighboring Burkina Faso and he ordered
several captured, said Omer Kodjo Dovi of the Niamey-based
Association to Safeguard the Giraffes of Niger.
But ''the giraffes went into a panic,'' Dovi said. ''They
couldn't outrun the trucks.''
The animals weigh up to 2,200 pounds (1,000 kilograms) and can
run at speeds up to 35 miles per hour (55 kilometers per hour). But
if they fall, they can have difficulty getting up and die.
Dovi said five were captured. Three died on the spot; two were
believed shipped to Burkina Faso. Nobody knows if they ever made
it.
By 1998, Niger's government pressed by conservation groups
began to realize the herds were about to disappear forever.
Authorities drafted new laws banning hunting and poaching.
Killing a giraffe became punishable by five-year jail terms and
fines amounting to hundreds of times the yearly income of farmers.
The changes had a startling effect: by 2004, the herds had
nearly doubled in size.
The government ''realized they had an invaluable biological and
tourism resource: the last population left in West Africa,'' said
Jean-Patrick Suraud, a French scientist with the Association to
Safeguard the Giraffes of Niger.
In 2004, though, the trucks came again this time on a mission
for President Mamadou Tandja, who ordered a pair captured for the
dictator of neighboring Togo.
Four vehicles barreled down the two-lane highway toward the
giraffe zone. Inside them were Togolese soldiers, government
forestry rangers and three local guides, according to the
independent local newspaper Le Republicain, which reported the
incident and published photographs.
''They did it like cowboys,'' said Suraud, who began working in
Niger in 2005. ''These are big animals, fragile. They can easily
die of stress.''
The giraffes were tied up, blindfolded, tranquilized and hauled
onto the back of open-back trucks bound for the Togo border.
They died en route.
In Africa, giraffe skin is used for drums, watertight bowls,
even shoes. Their bones are employed as grinders and some believe
they can help bring rain. Mounkaila, the guide, said some villagers
believe the hair on giraffe coats can induce fertility.
The villagers living around Koure, though, think giraffes are
mostly useless, Suraud said. They aren't domesticated, and they
can't be hunted for food. So the Association to Safeguard the
Giraffes of Niger tries to teach people it's in their interest to
keep them around.
''We tell them, 'if you are pro-giraffe, we can support you,
give you loans,''' Suraud said. ''But there is a quid pro quo. 'We
also want you to stop chopping down their bushes and plant
trees.'''
With 10 staff and help from private European zoos and the Prince
Albert II of Monaco Foundation, the Giraffe Association has built
wells, planted trees and educated guides like Mounkaila who make a
living escorting visitors through ''the giraffe zone'' the
fenceless region the animals trek through.
Niger's herds bring in a modest amount of tourist money for the
government, too, paid in small sums through $10 fees distributed
partly to the local district.
The Giraffe Association has focused especially on loans.
One of the beneficiaries, a 55-year-old Adiza Yamba, bought a
small lamb for $50. The mother of eight fed it, then sold it for
twice the price after it grew, paying back the money and pocketing
the profit a huge amount in one of the world's poorest countries.
''We don't mind them,'' Yamba said, echoing the stated view of
most farmers. ''Sometimes they try to eat the beans or mangos from
our fields, but they never bother us.''
Truer sentiments, perhaps, were evident last year when a pair of
giraffes was killed by a truck as they crossed the highway:
villagers swiftly moved in and divvied up huge chunks of red meat
from the roadkill.
Since 1996, Niger's giraffe population has expanded by 12
percent per year three times their average growth rate on the
rest of the continent, Suraud said.
One reason: they face no natural predators. Poachers around
Koure long ago wiped out the region's lions and leopards which
can claim 50 to 70 percent of young giraffes before they reach
their first year.
The giraffes had also stumbled upon a peaceful region with
enough food to sustain them, and a population that mostly left them
alone. Today, they crisscross the land in harmony with turbaned
nomads in worn flip-flops shepherding camels and sheep.
Drawn to freshly growing vegetation that sprouts during the
rainy season, the giraffes can be seen in herds of 10 or 15,
wrapping 18-inch black tongues (45-centimeter black tongues) around
thorny acacia trees and combretum bush.
They graze within eyesight of farmers living in thatched dome
huts, sometimes crossing through their bean and millet fields.
They are so used to humans, tourists can walk virtually right up
to them.
''It's quite special in Niger how habituated they've become,''
Fennessy said. ''You don't normally find giraffes living so close
to villagers.''
As the herds grow, some question how much the land can support.
The animals have been exploring new zones close to the border
with Mali. In 2007, two crossed into Nigeria, and never returned.
''When they go away from this zone, it's a big risk, they can be
hunted easily,'' said Suraud. ''The population may be growing, but
they're still very threatened.''
The biggest hazard: habitat loss.
On a recent day, Salifou Mamoudou, an Environment Ministry
official, spotted a turbaned man raking away vegetation from a dirt
field. He told the man he was breaking the law; the man said he was
only plowing a family plot legally.
Mamoudou shrugged, and moved on.
Villagers relentlessly cut down dead wood to sell, he said. And,
in an effort to make way for crops, they cut down vegetation the
giraffes feed on. That's technically illegal, but there is almost
no authority around to stop them.
''If we let them, they'll cut trees all the way up to the
road,'' Mamadou said, waving a hand toward the highway, several
miles (kilometers) away. ''If there is no habitat, there will be no
giraffes.''
In the early morning dusk, a family of five giraffes is feeding
on bubbles of vegetation freshened by recent rain.
It is a peaceful, primordial scene.
Mounkaila, the guide, takes a drag off a cigarette and walks
casually toward them. He is just a few yards (meters) away, dwarfed
by animals nearly three times his height.
Mounkaila rattles off some facts, not bothering to keep his
voice down. The gentle creatures eye him, but don't seem to mind. A
step closer, and they will slowly walk away.
They can grow up 20 feet tall (six meters tall), he says. They
can eat 65 to 85 pounds (30 to 40 kilograms) per day, live an
average of 25 years, and are able to go without water for weeks,
needing less than camels.
Amid a clutch of treetops in the opposite direction, the heads
of another pair poke out.
Mounkaila sweeps his shriveled hand across the landscape, toward
a red and white cell phone tower rising not far away above the
greenery.
''It wasn't always like this,'' the 50-year-old says, digging
his flip flops into the orange soil. ''When I was a boy, the
giraffes were far more numerous, but they were harder to see.''
There used to be enough vegetation to conceal them, he said, but
the bush and forests are disappearing. And with nowhere to hide,
the animals are forced to come out in search of food.
''They're easier to spot,'' Mounkaila said. ''But that's good
for us, not them.''
On the Net:
Giraffe Conservation Foundation:
http://www.giraffeconservation.org
(Copyright 2009 The Associated Press. All Rights Reserved.)
